Bergamo mens shorts pattern - sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
It’s straight-cut and knee-length shorts. They have stitched edges along the front and pockets in the side seam patch pockets on the back and an elasticated waistband, loops and drawstring.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
Natural fabrics are well suited for sewing shorts: cotton, linen.
ALSO NEEDED
• Cord — 1.70 m (1 7/8 yd);
• Interfacing tape — 50 cm (19 5/8’’);
• Grommets — 2 pcs;
• Elastic band 3.5–4 cm (1 ⅛” —1 ⅝”) wide, length (cm):
| Size | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| cm | 74 | 77 | 81 | 85 | 88 | 92 | 96 | 100 |
| in | 29 ⅛ | 30 ¼ | 31 ⅞ | 33 ½ | 34 ⅝ | 36 ¼ | 37 ¾ | 39 ⅜ |
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for French terry fabric width 1.80 m (2 yd), rib knit 1.20 m (1 ⅜ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
S-M / 46-48 |
L-XL / 50-52 |
2XL-3XL / 54-56 |
4XL-5XL / 58-60 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 1,05 | 1,10 | 1,10 | 1,15 |
| Main fabric, yd | 1 ⅛ | 1 ¼ | 1 ¼ | 1 ¼ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front short – 2
2 – Back short- 2
3 – Patch pocket – 2
4 – Waistband – 1
5 – Pocket bag – 2
6 – Side – 2
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Waist ease — 14 cm (5 ½”);
• Hips ease — 6.5 cm (2 ¼”);
• Hip ease — 9 cm (3 ½”).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Interface with the tape the entrance to the pocket on the front (1), the area for the loops on the waistband (4).
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
MAIN FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 46 (S)
Size — 60 (5XL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
PATCH POCKETS ON THE BACK
1. Press the top seam allowance on the pockets (5) by 1 cm (3/8’’) and 3 cm (1 1/8’’).
2. Press the figured allowances of the side and bottom cuts of the pocket. You can make a template from the pattern and use it as guidance for pressing.
3. Stitch the top corners of the pocket. Fold the allowances over the right side and stitch.
4. Secure the pressed top seam allowance with a topstitch. Check if the pockets are even and symmetrical.
5. Using the pattern, mark the location of the patch pockets on the back (2). Pin them and stitch with two lines at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) and 0.5 cm (3/16’’) from the edge.
SIDE SEAM POCKETS
6. Press the front pieces (1) along the edge line following the marks on the pattern.
7. Interface the entrance to the pocket on the front with interfacing tape.
8. Place the pocket bag (5) right sides together with the cut of the pocket entrance. Stitch and fold to the wrong side. Press.
9. Place two parallel top stitches along the pocket entrance line at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) and 0.5 cm (3/16’’) from the edge.
10. Sew the side piece (6) to the pocket bag, placing the pieces right sides together. Overlock and press.
11. Attach the pocket to the front along the upper side edge.
SHORTS ASSEMBLING
12. Stitch and overlock the shorts along the side and leg seams, placing the pieces right sides together. Press seam allowances towards the back pieces.
13. Sew the seat seam and overlock it. Press seam allowances towards the left leg.
14. Transfer the lines on the shorts from the pattern to imitate a fly and top stitch them on the sewing machine.
15. Topstitch along the entire seat seam at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the edge.
WAISTBAND
16. Install the grommets on the waistband pieces (4).
17. Fold the waistband right side inward and stitch along the side seam. Press allowances.
18. Press the waistband in half along its entire length.
19. Cut the elastic to the desired length and stitch it into a ring.
20. Insert the elastic into the waistband and secure with a stitch along the bottom edge. To distribute the elastic band and the waistband evenly, divide the elastic band and the waistband into 4 equal parts and connect them.
21. Topstitch along the waistband to form a drawstring for the cord.
22. Sew the waistband to the top edge of the shorts, placing it right side to the shorts. Overlock seam allowances and press towards shorts.
23. Finish the bottom of the shorts with a double fold hem. Press seam allowances first by 1 cm (3/8’’) and then by 3 cm (1 1/8’’) and topstitch. Press it.
24. Sew the tucks on the front pieces following the pressed lines at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the edge.
25. Cut the cord to the required length and insert it into the drawstring of the waistband using a safety pin. Cover the ends of the cord with decorative tips or any other way.
26. Give the shorts a final press.
